6 Hidden Gems in the West Coast, New Zealand. Our favourite off the beaten path adventures!
Known for its untamed, rugged and beautiful wilderness, the West Coast is an area where you feel like you’re constantly pulling over on the side of the road and hopping out to explore. This blog details six of the hidden gems that we have explored and ADORED on the West Coast. (I am hoping to update this with a seventh spot soon... watch this space). Now before I get into listing the beautiful spots, it’s really important to note that majority of these spots are rather risky and definitely not for the faint hearted. Admittedly, on a couple, it even became a real 'mind over matter' thing for me (Char), and I had to stop and take stock. I had to make sure I was comfortable and happy to continue. As a general rule of thumb, majority of the spots listed in this blog: are somewhat remote and isolated; require a good level of fitness (e.g. walking through waist deep icy cold water, pulling yourself up ledges on cliff edges, using ropes to guide yourself down rocks etc.); aren’t for the faint hearted; and require proper footwear (typically hiking boots or water shoes). They are quite simply, what the West Coast is all about - ADVENTURE! And just quickly, I want to note that if you're already on our website, you're probably a bit like us. Looking for adventure. Joy. Fun. To get off the beaten path a bit. We are big believers in sharing spots and tips, and believe that anyone reading this blog, will appreciate the importance in respecting and caring for these beautiful spots. So for that, thank you, and thank you for letting us share. 1. Wilson Creek Chasm This Chasm is beautiful beyond words. The mossy green rocks, the shafts of light beaming through the top, the gentle mist hitting your face. It’s a spot you could stay at for hours, just taking it all in. Except the water temperature is blimmin' chilly, so you probably won’t!! We have visited this Chasm three times, and every time, have had the entire place to ourselves (plus of course the hordes of classic West Coast sandflies). It's not very big, so would likely feel quite crowded if there was another group there. Of all the hidden gems in this blog this, in our opinion, is the most accessible (and consistently accessible). You pull over on the Highway, walk a quick minute down the road until you reach the Wilson Creek bridge and then into the Chasm. All up, it only takes 5-10 minutes to get into the Chasm (from parking). You may be able to continue exploring the Chasm further up, but we believe this would likely require canyon-ing/abseiling skills. As we do not have these skills, we therefore stopped where we were comfortable. To get into the Chasm you will get wet feet so water shoes/hiking boots are required. The rocks can be quite slippery, and there is a wee bit of a current in the water so you want to be steady on your feet. If you’re wanting to take photos here, the chasm is in shade most of the day and we have found late morning or early afternoon the best time to visit. You will also need to make sure you bring a cloth as the mist/spray from the waterfall can hit your camera pretty fast! WILSON CREEK CHASM SUMMARY 5-10 minute walk from carpark Low - medium difficulty Best time to visit: early afternoon or late morning QUICK TIPS FOR WILSON CREEK CHASM: Feet will get wet This beautiful chasm is the home to about 10,345,634,29 sandflies so lather up! Proper footwear is a must – either hiking shoes or water shoes (must have good grip). Water is bloody cold. Bloody bloody cold. Be prepared for this and try visiting during the warmer part of the day. Do not attempt this walk after rain! Although the Chasm is crazily close to the road, there is no cell phone service here (or along this stretch of State Highway 6). It is therefore unlikely anyone will be close by. You should be prepared for this. We carried our Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) on us and would highly recommend making sure you have one too! Make sure you have your first-aid kit on you and carry it in your backpack. Best time to visit is late morning or early afternoon so the chasm has some light but isn’t blown out. To find out more about where this spot is located, plus our photography settings for the above images, check out our travel guide - the CJ Way to Wilson Creek Chasm here. 2. Secret Fantail Falls (or Fantail Falls 2.0) I’m not sure if this (Fantail Falls 2.0) is the official name for this waterfall but it’s what we (super imaginative, creative types) have called it. We have visited this waterfall twice and had totally different experiences here based on the water levels! Last Summer (Feb 2019) we visited the Falls and didn’t quite appreciate how low the water level was (image below). We parked in the Fantail Falls car park and walked left (rather than right - as if you were going to the popular Fantail Falls) and followed the creek the whole way up until we reached the waterfall. All up, this relatively straight-forward path only took us about 15-20 minutes (and this wasn't rushing as we wanted to be careful when walking through the deeper parts of the creek as there was a current). The water was only knee deep on this occasion. This Summer (January 2020), we were absolutely shocked at the landscape in front of us (first pic of James and pic below of Char). The quiet, peaceful falls we were expecting were transformed into a wild, rugged adventure fall. This meant we were unable to walk along the creek like last year as the current was far too strong/there was too high a risk. Instead we crossed the creek at the very start (shallow - only ankle deep - and again this means going left rather than right as if you were going to the main Fantail Falls), and then found a path leading up the hill to the right. All up, taking this ‘route’ to get to the waterfall, I would say it took us about 45 minutes one way, whereas last year, walking along the water only took us 15-20. You should be prepared to take the longer route when visiting if walking through the water doesn't seem safe. This route is also pretty hairy and you are on (what feel like unstable) cliff edges for part of it. Definitely not one for the faint-hearted. Am I saying faint-hearted too much? Probably. The waterfall is in shade most of the day as it’s situated quite low down in the mountains. If you’re looking to take photos here, we think the best time of day to visit is mid-late morning. We also think the less water here, the better! As the base of the falls is such a beautiful clear turquoise colour and when there is lots of water (and it's rushing through), you miss out on seeing this. Worth it? For us yes. It was quite impressive seeing the transformation in the falls and sitting there, catching our breath and feeling the powerful spray on us. It was also one of the two 'mind over matter' spots for me (Char), where I had to really stop, catch my breath and confirm I felt comfortable continuing on the 'route'. This definitely made it even more special to me, as I felt like I had conquered something. Plus I never fell over here, only James. haha. And last note, if you do the two hour hike up to Brewster Hut (which we also highly recommend and I have linked our guide in here), when you're up the top, make sure you you look around and spot the two separate waterfalls! As you can probably guess, they are Fantail Falls 1 and Fantail Falls 2. It's pretty special seeing the falls start all the way up there and then finish all the way down here! SUMMARY FOR FANTAIL FALLS (FANTAIL FALLS 2.0) 15-20 minute or 45-60 minute walk from carpark (one way) Extreme/High difficulty if walking through the bush/over the hill Medium difficulty if walking through the creek/water Best in early afternoon or late morning and when water levels are lower QUICK TIPS FOR SECRET FANTAIL FALLS (FANTAIL FALLS 2.0) Feet will get wet no matter which route you take!! If water levels are high (i.e. there has been a lot of rain recently) you will not be able to walk along the creek until you reach the Waterfall, and instead you must walk through the bush/cliff. This is quite a risky walk and you should be a confident bushwalker if attempting! Proper footwear is a must – either hiking shoes or water shoes (must have good grip). Do not attempt when raining (or after recent rain) Although this waterfall is very close to the super busy Fantail Falls, there is no cell phone service here (or along this stretch of State highway 6) and it's unlikely anyone will be close by. We carried our PLB with us and would not do this walk if we didn’t have one. Make sure you have first-aid on you and carry it in your backpack. Best time to visit is late morning for photographing the falls. You will need to pack a microfibre cloth here as your camera will get rather wet from the mist! For more information on Fantail Falls 2.0, including detail on the track and what it's like, please see our guide - the CJ Way to Secret Fantail Falls here. 3. Hole in the Hill – Hidden West Coast Arch Unsure whether you have the time to make it up to Oparara to see the incredible basin? Well you're in luck, there is an incredible arch which is *relatively* easy to access in Charleston! And even better, you get that same sense of adventure here too - but without the crowds! We read about the 'Hole in the Hill' online a few months ago and ever keen for an adventure, we thought why not go and give it a go! Online, there isn't a whole heap of info on the walk, and the few statements you do read, can certainly put you off. In particular, statements like "be careful of sinkholes" haha. And on that note, I wouldn't say there are sinkholes on the 'path' per se, but the mud can definitely pull you in. At times we got sucked in right up to our calves! To get here, you drive along a rocky, almost 4WD track for 5-6 km, then follow a (super) muddy path for about 10-12 minutes and then cut left. Thankfully locals have kindly put markers (usually pink) along this path, otherwise it would likely be too difficult to navigate. From there you start heading down the hill for another 10-15 minutes until you reach the creek right at the bottom. This leads you to the incredible Arch. Caused by thousands of years of erosion, this arch is quite simply one of those sights that makes you stop and think WOW. You can't help but wonder what it must have looked like years ago. And then you can't help but wonder what it will look like in the years to come. For us, this arch was a lot of fun and a true adventure in every sense of the word. Going somewhere we had never been before. Slipping over in mud. Finding little waterfalls. Yelling in the arch and hearing the powerful echo. We visited around lunch time, and while the light wasn't ideal, sometimes it's not all about the photos, but the adventure. But also, when we go again, we would definitely come early morning or late afternoon as we think this would be ideal for light. Yes, I just re-read that and we are super contradictory. Haha. We ended up taking photos facing both ways here as there are endless opportunities to get creative with the rock-faces, the ceiling, or even the really cool lone tree that sits on the east side. Because this isn't a place you often see photos of, it's really fun to just go and do your own thing! Dance, jump, run, spin, do it all. SUMMARY FOR HOLE IN THE HILL (HIDDEN ARCH) Rough road in in but doable in a 2WD (just take it slow) 30 minute walk from carpark (one way) Medium difficulty Best in mid morning or late afternoon QUICK TIPS FOR HOLE IN THE HILL (HIDDEN ARCH) Feet will get extremely muddy and wet! If you have gumboots this is 100% their time to shine! Maybe even 110%. Do not attempt when raining, or if there has recently been rain, we think the hill would likely be too slippery/hectic! Proper footwear is a must – either hiking shoes or water shoes (must have good grip). Again, you must be happy for these to come back completely brown and muddy. Make sure you have first-aid on you and carry it in your backpack. Best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon for getting light in the arch. I would recommend packing a picnic and eating it down there. There can be quite a lot of wind coming through the arch, so a wind proof layer at the bottom might be a good idea, especially if you're planning on staying there for a few hours. For more information on the hole in the hill, including the detailed summary of the track and GPS coordinates, please see our travel guide - the CJ Way to the Hole in the Hill here. 4. Ford Creek Chasm Hands down my favourite of all these hidden gems. This one is just the best. A bit of an adventure, a bit of fun, and then absolutely mind-blowingly beautiful scenery. In fact I would go as far to say it would be in my top top spots in all of the South Island. If you time your visit well, seeing the dappled light hit the chasm walls will leave you truly speechless. So how do you get here? Crazily enough, this incredible chasm isn't actually all that hidden! It's located in Blackball, a town you might already be visiting for their museum of the working class (Mahi Tapuna - which by the way is well worth checking out!). We have visited this chasm twice and both times had the place to ourselves. On the second visit (January 2020), there were road-works blocking off where we had previously parked so we had to park a little way back. On this second visit, we parked at the lookout sign on Roa Road. From Roa Road, you then walk down the old 4wd track on the left hand side of the road to get to the start of the walk. Please note that even if you have a 4WD car, you will still want to park up on Roa Road as there is no space for parking at the bottom. Getting into the chasm itself is a little tricky, but if you know you're going to get wet and where to go, you should be ok! All up it took us about 20-30 minutes to get to the chasm entrance from the car. The colours in this mud-stone chasm are just gorgeous and you won't be able to take your eyes off them. Although I should note we (well I) almost gave up when we saw a giant eel about 20 minutes into the chasm (turns out I have quite the irrational fear of them haha). Slippery devils. There is also one section which is quite deep (where the eel resides) that went up to our tummies/chests. On our second visit here, James wore his boardies and I wore my togs (putting on my shorts when I started getting cold and then of course falling into the water minutes later and drenching them). If you have the right footwear, the ability to take your time and be careful, we couldn't recommend this beautiful chasm any more. The palette of colours in front of you will be like nothing you have ever seen before. In terms of lighting and photography, again, we would say this beautiful spot is best in the early-mid morning or late afternoon on a clear day. This is also one to AVOID if there has been recent rain or if any rain is forecasted. It was still very slippery when we went and there had been no rain for a couple of weeks (which is actually quite a feat for the West Coast haha. Well done West Coast, Well done!!). Also if it were to start raining, I expect flash flooding could easily occur here. SUMMARY FOR FORD CREEK CHASM 20-30 minute walk from carpark (one way and to entrance of Chasm). Medium difficulty to entrance, extreme difficulty from inside Chasm. Best in mid-morning or late afternoon on a sunny day. QUICK TIPS FOR FORD CREEK CHASM You really need water shoes with good grip here. Do not attempt if raining, or after recent rain. This track will be too dangerous. If you're taking camera equipment into the chasm you will want a dry bag. If going into the Chasm you should expect to be up to your waist in icy-cold water. Make sure you have a first-aid kit and carry it with you. Take a PLB if you have one. We personally wouldn't have attempted this walk without ours. Best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon for getting dappled light in the chasm (noting you will need sunshine!). Don't visit on a cold day unless you have a wetsuit. It will be too chilly otherwise. Top tip - bring an extra set of clothes and leave them at the start of the Chasm so you can get warm when you come out. We felt like a million bucks when we were reunited with our puffers. For more information on Ford Creek Chasm, including specific details on how we navigated the 'track' and exact GPS coordinates, please see our guide - the CJ Way to Ford Creek Chasm here. 5. Orange Starfish at Motukiekie Beach Low tide at Punakaiki? You might be feeling a bit let down that you don't get to see the crazy force of the Punakaiki blowholes, shooting up a ferocious sea-salt spray. But there's a silver lining to low-tide. In fact there's an orange lining if you will. At low tide, you have the chance to witness what I would call magic. Something the two of us had never seen before (or even come close to seeing!!). At low tide, you get a shot at seeing hundreds and hundreds of bright orange starfish appear at Motukiekie Beach. A very special spectacle. Now there are two ways of getting to the rock-shelf where the starfish are. The easy way is to park at Motukiekie beach parking and walk about 20 minutes south along the coastline. Here you will spot a small number of good ol' kiwi baches on your walk to the rockshelf (I mention these so you can make sure you're starting in the right spot). Or the trickier/more adventurous/classic West Coast way is to park along the road on a small pull off (coordinates provided below) and use the local track down. Note - this car park can only fit 2-3 cars so if it's full please park elsewhere. This route uses a couple of ropes, has a ladder and in one part takes you pretty close to the cliff edge. Full disclaimer, first time we did this 'walk' we wore jandals thinking it wouldn't be too hectic. Other than paying for a fitness app at $20 a month and not using it once, this was one of the worst decisions we have made lately. So second time we wore our water shoes as they have really good grip and some parts of the track are a little muddy. First time down would have taken us 15 minutes in our poor shoe choice, second time five or so minutes. Also yes, I have unsubscribed to the app now. And yes, I have also checked we weren't locked in to automatic payments. Thank goodness haha. Once you reach the bottom (using another rope), you climb down to the shore and walk right for about 4-5 minutes until you see the exposed rock-shelf. This is where thousands of mussels feed off the rock, and then feeding on them, are the masses of bright orange starfish. They create one of the most incredible, vibrant displays we have ever seen. If you can time low-tide so it coincides with sunset we would seriously urge you to spend it here. Watching the sky flash pink and purple above while below us was sparkling with bright orange starfish was just amazing. Now, to keep expectations realistic, I think this could be one of those spots that requires a little patience. Last time we had it lined up (sunset and low tide), we arrived to the beach and the weather had turned, with the water a little dangerous. The tides along the West Coast can be very rough, especially if there is a swell. On our second visit (the picture above), the tide was still going out, so we felt quite safe standing in the water. If you don't have the luxury of waiting around for ideal conditions (which let's face it - with the West Coast weather - could be a while haha), we still highly recommend a visit during the day. And if you do get to see this remarkable sight, please tell us if this is the first time you have seen starfish with more than five arms. SUMMARY FOR ORANGE STAR FISH AT MOTUKIEKIE BEACH Easy if parking at main stretch of Motukiekie beach (20 min walk). Medium difficulty if parking at tiny pull off on side of road (5-10 min walk). Only visible during low tide. QUICK TIPS FOR SEEING THE ORANGE STARFISH AT MOTUKIEKIE BEACH If you're taking the adventurous (and fun!) path down, wear shoes with good grip! Do not go down to the rock-shelf if it's high tide and/or a swell. In fact you won't actually be able to as the water hits up against the cliff. So a pointless bullet point really. Pointless point? Try saying that quickly four times. Try and time your visit (if you can) so low-tide coincides with sunset! Keep your eye on the weather as it's the West Coast so things can change QUICK! For more information on Motukiekie Beach, including the approximate coordinates of the rock shelf, please see our guide - the CJ Way to Motukiekie Beach here. 6. Glow Worm Dell in Hokitika If you have been dreaming of seeing starry skies in the West Coast, but the weather isn't playing along, good news! You can see a starry sky, no matter what the weather. And I'm not talking about the really cool starry ceilings that Reading Cinemas often have in their foyer area. Anyone else know what I'm talking about? Surely.. one of you? Right, back to the glow worms, a gorgeous, lesser known gem in Hokitika is the Glow Worm Dell. A small, but incredible wee dell that's home to hundreds and hundreds of glow worms. Given a lot of spots in NZ now charge for viewing glow-worms, the Hokitika Glow Worm Dell feels even more incredible. And it's only about 200m from where you park! When we visited (February 2019) there was only one other couple there (plus us haha). You do need to crawl through a tiny opening (where James is sitting in the above photo), but then it opens into a high 'ceiling' cave. I think this is a great one for the kiddies! SUMMARY FOR GLOW WORM DELL Best time to visit is at night when it's dark. Summer is the best time to visit as glow worms are more active then! Pack a red torch! Easy (in terms of difficulty) and definitely accessible for kiddies. Respect the glow worms and don't use torches/lights/flash photography. Park up next to the Woodstock Hotel. QUICK TIPS FOR SEEING THE GLOW WORM DELL You might like to wear shoes that have good grip as you crawl in the first bit. Photography wise, you will really need a tripod here and low aperture lens! (we have provided more photography info in the CJ way linked below!) :) For more information on Glow Worm Dell, including the approximate coordinates of the Dell and our photography tips, please see our guide - the CJ Way to the Hokitika Glow Worm Dell here. And there you have it, our top six lesser known gems on the Wild West Coast. We hope you found this blog helpful, and it inspires you to get off the beaten path and have an adventure (or two!). If you're looking for our eight top must-do experiences in the West Coast, you can read our blog on this here. Again, before I wrap this up I would like to please stress two points: All of these spots show how incredibly beautiful and diverse mother nature is. They show how special our environment is. Thank you for respecting each location and leaving no trace. Most of these spots require a good level of fitness and aren't for the faint-hearted (wow. I am going to town on that phrase), so please don't attempt them if you're not confident, or don't have suitable equipment/gear. Certainly for us we would not have attempted Ford Creek Chasm or Fantail Falls 2.0 without our PLB. And finally, I share these locations in honour of my wonderful, so very much missed, Dad. He was always a great ambassador for sharing his 'off the beaten path adventures' and I strive to continue this legacy of his. So that said - this blog, and all of our adventures listed in here are for you Dad. The mud up to the knees, James falling over in a waterfall, us dancing in a hidden archway. All of them. #awaywithcj #nz #newzealand #travelblog #westcoast #nzmustdo #westcoastnz #hiddengem #offthebeatenpath #fordcreekchasm #holeinthehill #starfish #motukiekie #wilsonscreekchasm #chasm #secretwaterfall #aotearoa